How-to

How to Rekey a Schlage Deadbolt Step by Step

Updated 2026-05-27. Locksmith School PRO editorial team.

The Fundamentals of Schlage Rekeying

Rekeying a Schlage deadbolt is a foundational skill for any locksmith. Unlike a simple lock change, which requires replacing the entire hardware, rekeying allows you to alter the mechanism so that an existing key no longer operates the lock while a new key does. For residential and small commercial service calls, this is often the primary service requested. According to industry standards, a proficient technician should be able to decode and rekey a standard Schlage cylinder in under 10 minutes (BLS, 2024).

Schlage deadbolts, particularly the ubiquitous B-series and the residential "F" series, utilize a standard pin-tumbler mechanism. While the exterior aesthetics may vary, the internal cylinder architecture remains consistent across most product lines. The process involves removing the cylinder from the chassis, removing the plug, and replacing the bottom pins to match the cuts of a new key. This guide focuses on the specific procedure for Schlage deadbolts, highlighting the nuances that differentiate them from other brands like Kwikset or Weiser.

Before you touch a lock, you must verify your legal standing to perform this work. In many jurisdictions, rekeying a lock you do not own is a regulated activity. For example, strict guidelines are enforced regarding who can possess locksmithing tools and perform services. If you are operating in a regulated market, you must adhere to local statutes. You can review specific state requirements, such as the Locksmith Licensing in Oregon: DPSST Walkthrough, to understand compliance in your region.

Essential Tools and Materials

Attempting this job without the correct tools will likely result in frustration and damaged hardware. A professional setup is minimal but specific. You cannot rely on makeshift tools if you want to produce reliable results.

For a standard Schlage rekey, you will need the following:

Current Working Key: The key that currently operates the lock. If the customer has lost this key, you will need to pick the lock to extract the plug or impression a new key, which is outside the scope of this guide.
New Key (Key Blank): A Schlage key blank, typically the Schlage C or Keyway style. Ensure the blank is uncut and of high quality.
Pin Kit: A lab kit containing various sizes of bottom pins and master wafers. Schlage typically uses a numbering system from 0 (shallowest cut) to 9 (deepest cut). Brands like ILCO or KSP offer standard pin kits compatible with Schlage cylinders.
Cylinder Follower: A specialized tool used to push the plug out of the cylinder housing while retaining the top pins and springs. It must be the exact diameter of the plug housing to prevent the top pins from falling out of place.
Plug Follower Tool (or Tweezers): For handling small pins and springs.
Shim: A thin metal feeler gauge used to bypass the retainer tab on the tailpiece or cam, though this is less frequently needed on modern Schlage deadbolts compared to knobsets.
Lockpick Set: Standard tension wrench and hook or rake, in case the cylinder is stubborn or you need to set the pins during disassembly.

Step 1: Disassembling the Deadbolt

The first phase of the job is removing the cylinder from the door. On a Schlage deadbolt, the cylinder is usually housed within the exterior assembly. Unlike some knobsets where you remove the faceplate, deadbolts are generally accessed by separating the interior and exterior housings.

Remove the Interior Thumbturn: Locate the small set screw or retaining clip on the interior thumbturn. On most Schlage residential models, there is a small hole on the side of the thumbturn piece. Insert a small Allen wrench or a stiff wire into the hole to depress the retainer, and pull the thumbturn straight off the spindle.
Unscrew the Interior Housing: Once the thumbturn is removed, you will see two mounting screws (usually Phillips head) securing the interior escutcheon to the exterior housing. Remove these screws. The interior assembly should now pull away from the door.
Remove the Cylinder Retainer: With the interior side off, you will see the tailpiece (the metal tab that turns the lock bolt). The cylinder is held into the exterior housing by a retaining clip or a ring. On the B-series, this is often a C-clip on the back of the cylinder. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry this clip off. Be careful not to lose the clip, as it is essential for reassembly.
Extract the Cylinder: Slide the cylinder out of the exterior housing. You now have the cylinder in hand, ready for decoding.

Step 2: Decoding the Lock

Decoding is the process of determining the depth of the cuts on the current key to understand the existing pin configuration. While you can simply dump the pins and measure them, decoding the key is faster and allows you to prepare your new pins before disassembling the plug.

Schlage keys typically have 5 cuts. The cuts are numbered from the bow (handle) of the key to the tip. A standard Schlage key uses depths ranging from 0 to 9, with 0 being the shallowest and 9 being the deepest. The increments are usually .015 inches.

Use a key gauge or a caliper to measure the depth of each cut on the current working key. Write down the 5-digit code. For example, if the key cuts are shallow, deep, medium, shallow, deep, your code might look like 2-8-5-1-9.

Next, measure the cuts on the new key. This gives you the target code. The difference between the current code and the new code determines which bottom pins you need to select. If the current cut is a 2 and the new cut is a 5, you need a bottom pin that is .045 inches taller (or three sizes larger) to accommodate the deeper cut on the new key.

Step 3: Removing the Plug

This is the most critical mechanical step. The plug is the part of the lock that the key inserts into. It sits inside the cylinder housing (shell). Between the plug and the shell are the top pins, springs, and potentially master wafers.

Insert the Current Key: Put the current working key into the plug. This is crucial. The key must be there to lift the pins to the shear line, allowing the plug to rotate freely.
Rotate the Plug: Turn the key slightly (usually about 45 degrees) until the plug feels loose. This aligns the top pins and bottom pins, allowing the plug to slide out.
Apply the Follower: Place the cylinder follower against the back of the plug (the end opposite the key). Apply firm, steady pressure.
Slide the Plug Out: While maintaining pressure on the follower, slide the plug out of the housing. Do not let the follower slip. If the follower slips past the top pins, the springs will launch the top pins out of the cylinder, and you will have to re-stack them, which is time-consuming and frustrating.

Set the housing aside carefully. Ensure the follower remains in place to hold the top pins and springs in the chamber.

Step 4: Repinning the Cylinder

With the plug removed, you will see the bottom pins resting in the plug chambers, held in place by the key.

Dump the Old Pins: Turn the plug over (key side down) and dump the existing bottom pins into your trash or a discard pile. Remove the key from the plug.
Insert the New Key: Insert the new key into the plug.
Load New Bottom Pins: Refer to your new key code. Select the corresponding bottom pins from your pin kit. Insert them into the chambers of the plug, one by one, starting from the tip of the key or the bow—order does not technically matter, but working systematically prevents errors.
Check for Flush Fit: As you insert each pin, ensure it sits flush with the top of the plug chamber. The bottom pin should be held in the chamber by the key cut, with no gap and no protrusion. If a pin sticks up too high, the cylinder will not turn. If it sits too low, the lock will not secure.

Step 5: Reassembly and Testing

Once all five bottom pins are installed and sit flush with the plug, you are ready to reassemble the cylinder.

Reinsert the Plug: Ensure the new key is still in the plug. Align the plug with the housing. You may need to rotate the plug slightly to align the cam tailpiece or simply to mesh with the top pins.
Reverse the Follower: Push the plug back into the housing while simultaneously withdrawing the follower. The top pins and springs should rest smoothly on top of the new bottom pins.
Remove the Key: Once the plug is fully seated, remove the key. The plug should snap back to its resting position.
Function Test: Before putting the lock back on the door, test it. Insert the new key. It should turn smoothly. If it binds, you likely have a pin that is too tight or a spring that is misaligned. Remove the plug and check your work. If the key turns but does not lock (i.e., the plug spins freely without the bolt moving), check the tailpiece alignment.
Test the Old Key: Try the old key. It should not turn the lock. If it does, you have made an error in pin sizing or the lock has master wafers that are allowing the old key to work. Remove the master wafers if they are not required by the customer.

After the cylinder passes the bench test, reinstall it into the exterior housing, secure the retainer clip, and mount the assembly back onto the door. Test the operation again with the door open and then closed to ensure the bolt throws and retracts correctly without binding the strike plate.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced technicians can slip up on routine calls. Being aware of these common errors will save you time and embarrassment on the job site.

Losing the Retainer Clip: The C-clip on the back of a Schlage cylinder is small and spring-loaded. When prying it off, it can fly across the room. Always cup your hand over the clip as you release it.
Follower Slippage: This is the number one error for apprentices. If the follower slips and the top pins fall out, you must measure the top pins and springs to replace them. While Schlage top pins are generally universal in length for a given series, mixing them up can cause erratic behavior.
Incorrect Pin Sizing: Do not guess at pin sizes. Always use a gauge or caliper. A pin that is even .005 inches too large can cause the lock to seize up, especially in temperature extremes.
Ignoring Master Wafers: Many commercial Schlage locks (and some residential) use master wafers to allow a master key to operate them. If you rekey the lock for a new tenant and leave the master wafers in, the building manager might still have access, which violates the customer's expectation of exclusivity. Unless the customer requests a master system, remove the master wafers.

When to Call Someone Else

Rekeying is a standard procedure, but there are scenarios where it is not the correct solution. If the lock is damaged, worn out, or exhibits high security features you are not trained for, rekeying can be a liability.

If the cylinder shows signs of "picking" damage or the tailpiece is broken, the internal mechanism may be compromised. In these cases, installing a new cylinder is the only safe option. Furthermore, if you encounter a Schlage Primus or Everest high-security cylinder, standard rekeying tools and pins will not work. These require specialized side-bar pins and often patented keyways. Attempting to force these locks with standard tools can destroy the cylinder and render the door inoperable.

Additionally, if you are on a call where the lockout is the primary issue—such as a customer locked out at odd hours—rekeying is secondary to gaining entry. If you are struggling to gain access without damaging the lock, you might need to consult resources on How to Handle an Emergency Lockout Call at 2 AM to ensure you are following non-destructive entry protocols.

Conclusion

Mastering the rekeying of a Schlage deadbolt is an essential step in your journey as a locksmith. It requires patience, attention to detail, and a respect for the mechanical tolerances of the lock. By following these steps—disassembly, decoding, plug removal, repinning, and testing—you ensure the security of your client's property while demonstrating professional competence.

This skill is just one component of a comprehensive locksmithing education. To deepen your understanding of lock mechanisms, business practices, and advanced security solutions, explore the Locksmith School PRO training overview. Whether you are looking to start a career or refine your existing skills, professional training provides the structure needed to succeed in this competitive trade.

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